Thursday, January 28
Shop address: The Crystals, Las Vegas
Client: Marni, Milan, Italy (Consuelo & Gianni Castiglioni)
Architect: Sybarite, London, UK (Simon Mitchell, Torquil McIntosh, Giorgia Cannici)
Site Architect: Creative Design Architecture, Las Vegas (Rami Atout)
Main Contractor: Modus srl, Italy (Massimiliano Tiezzi)
Specialist Contractor: Soozar, Shanghai, China (Susan Heffernan, Doukee Wang)
Shop Area: 220 m²
Sybarite Press Release Text: Project 284 – Marni Las Vegas
Sybarite’s design for the new Marni flagship at the Crystals in Las Vegas was inspired by the image of a cracking whip, seemingly suspended in mid-air as it unfurls. Defining the perimeter, this sinuous ‘lasso’ of stainless steel encircles the boutique, providing hanging space for the RTW collection. At one end it is anchored by the cash and wrap desk, and at the other it morphs into a sculptural wall inset with fibreglass shoe displays.
it's only been a few seasons now for Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli as Valentino leads, so i get that they're still trying to find their "special touch"- but i have to say, i'm confused. starting out - they were almost too safe, barely experimenting away from Valentino signatures.. so what do they do this season?
uhh.. the opposite of "Valentino", i guess.
the the cut:
The theme was Garden of Eden, and critics agreed the designers succeeded in creating a "transporting" experience. Models had blue Avatar makeup on their shoulders and the clothes had a distinct eco, leafy vibe, like they sprouted up from Pandora soil. But WWD said the show "seemed too desperate to be achingly cool." The paper wondered "where in this fantasy world was the essence of Valentino?" Though they applaud Chiuri and Piccioli for trying to take the label in a new direction, they add that it's "easier said than done."
Wednesday, January 27
Riccardo Tisci called the show "Early ’70s Paris — erotic."
The sheer paneling and the audacious glitter jumpsuits!
SuzyMenkes writes in the New York Times:
The show deliberately disintegrated into a disco mania of purple and electric blue — a wild rave of evening clothes, calmed by two ball gowns with psychedelic colors on the hem ruffles.
are you weeping yet? just me? okay.
i just want to eat, sleep, get married in every piece from this collection.
view all here
Tuesday, January 26
Karl Lagerfeld called the collection “neon-baroque”, an ode to the acid yellow, cotton candy pink and subdued lime hues in the collection// almost like icing, amid a delicate tableau of frosted pastels, champagne and cream; and one hint of black, in the form of a large “kipper tie”, embellished with a crystal brooch, which punctuated the front of classic, white silk, column-gown.
Someone backstage suggested futurism. "I hate that," Lagerfeld shot back. "I don't believe in avant-garde clothes for a future that will never happen. Fashion is always now."
So impressed with the sans-black palette, a challenge to the traditional Chanel collections. And the rocker-ish rough silver gloves against the uber lady-like pastels? genius. but then again, when is KL not?
see entire collection here
Haughty, crop-switching equestriennes in top hats, veils, and impeccable riding habits; incredible ball gowns swathed and swagged in dozens of yards of duchesse satin: This was one of those occasions when John Galliano pushed a Dior couture show into the realms of sensory overload. He'd been galvanized by a research trip to the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum, where—just up his romantic street—he lost himself in a recent bequest of Charles James gowns being prepared for this spring's exhibition American Woman. "I was reading that, actually, it was Charles James who influenced Monsieur Dior to come up with the New Look," he said. "And then I was looking at a photo of Charles James doing a fitting—and on the wall behind him was a picture of women riding sidesaddle. And that was it!"
Quite apart from the double-layered references, neatly trimmed to both house tradition and the upcoming American moment, this was an example of Dior teamwork meshing at optimum force. From the models' performances—Karlie Kloss walking as if she were a thoroughbred dressage pony herself—to Pat McGrath's porcelain-perfect makeup and matte red lips, to Stephen Jones' giant snoods, veils, and hats, right through to Michael Howells' backdrop of 3,000 overblown pastel roses, it made for an unforgettable coming together of live atmosphere, detail, and voluptuous visual pleasure. After two seasons in which Galliano has set the fashion agenda with hit lingerie collections at Dior, he is, forgive the pun, a designer firmly back in the saddle.
VIEW WHOLE COLLECTION HERE
French designer Inga Sempé has created the Sofa Ruché for Ligne Roset
A few words from the designer:
I was, at the outset, inspired by swing seats, the kind of rocking seats which one brings out in the garden in summertime, made from tubing and fabric, which possess a lightness I like very much. Like them, Ruché combines rigidity and flexibility, with airy looks and sparing use of materials.
Ruché’s structure is in solid beech, either stained or natural. I wanted to offer a version in natural beech: natural wood is beautiful, qualitative, authentic; it’s modern, and at the same time restful, for it is one of the rare natural elements which one can have in a living room. The angles of the feet are worked ‘en congé’, which both refines them and protects the grain of the wood from shocks.
Upon its slim legs rests a thick mattress with distinctive quilting, a kind of boutis stitch or padding made using a cross-hatching of interrupted seams. Alternately flattened by the stitches then set free, the fabric ‘curls’ in places, giving rise both to its unique appearance and to its name, Ruché (a gathered or pleated fabric which serves as decoration on a piece of clothing).Slender and fine, Ruché is nonetheless soft and welcoming. Its internal structure, its filling materials and its quilting were brought together and developed with a view to offering great comfort. Since the height of its armrests is the same as that of its back, one can just as easily sit sideways and stretch out one’s legs: as a major refinement, the armrest is mounted on elastic webbing to enable the sitter to lean back in the greatest possible comfort.
Friday, January 22
Suno, Tank w/Front Pocket, $195.00 Suno, Flutter Side Dress, $290.00
Suno, Pleated Skirt w/ Petticoat, $375.00 Suno, Pleated Culotte, $290.00
Music by Marvin Gaye
Styling by Joe McKenna
Clothes by Stefano Pilati
In this short film by Bruce Weber called “Ain’t Nothing Like the Real Thing” that debuted at yesterday’s show in Paris, male models dance around as Weber laments the demise of carefree nude posing.